Monday, May 01, 2006

Buffalo River 6/13-6/15/2005

The Buffalo National River is a free-flowing, low gradient waterway that cuts through the heart of the Arkansas Ozark Mountains. This plateau-like range peaks at the headwaters of the Buffalo near Red Star and Fallsville at an elevation of 2,200 feet. The river begins as Class II+ seasonal whitewater stream above Pruitt, Arkansas. It then quickly settles to a class I-II float river, ideal for extended canoe camping. The distance from Boxley Bridge to Buffalo City is 131 river miles!












The best whitewater action is in the upper third of the river. The scenery is great throughout the river, especially in the middle third of the river from Pruitt to Gilbert. The lower Buffalo is extremely easy stretch with long pools, limited access, and dramatic bluffs. The entire stretch of the river is protected by the National Park Service, controlling over 100,000 acres. The Buffalo sees plenty of crowds on summertime weekends, especially on day trip sections. There numerous outfitters along each section of the river and theaccess points are easily accessible. If you like clear water, gravel bars, and wary smallmouth bass the Buffalo is the place for you...
















Trip Report
Woolum to Gilbert


We loaded down the Toyota Camry in St. Francisville, LA. Emily, her brother Adam, and I began the long journey to the Arkansas Ozarks and the Buffalo National River. We camped the first night at Richland Creek out of the car. I caught a few smallies wading here near the campsite. We slept here and prepared for Day One on the river.
















Arkansas was in the middle of a serious drought by the time we made our trip. River levels were an issue at 3.8' at St. Joe, closing all of the Upper River. We opted to drag a little bit of the section just below Woolum in order to have more privacy. And, we did indeed have to do some dragging, especially the inflatable kayak. We also had the section of the river to ourselves for the most part. I also chose a shorter overall trip for this three day, two night paddle. In 1996, I paddled a 47.5 miler from Pruitt to Gilbert with little effort, the level then was a brisk 7 feet.



















The springs at Margaret White Bluff was a neat area at this level. The river went from being virtually devoid of fish, to a stream full of all species. The water was refreshingly cooler here. We camped the first night at the Slay Branch/Cemetary area. The site was level and large, but the view wasn't exactly spectacular. There were visible scars of the 2004 flood at our site, with washed out banks.














We made a short paddle on day two earning a very fine campsite at the rivers edges near Whisenant Bluff. We specifically camped 1/4 mile up river from a spot labeled the "hangover" on the Trails Illustrated map. The river was all ours here, with a nice smallmouth hole down below. We enjyed a nice class I shoal chuckling over the rocks right by the tent. The weather was outstanding, with overning lows near 60 and low humidity. We passed another outstanding looking campsite at Peter Cave Bluff. I found that laying your map out in a Seal Line Map Case made it very easy to track our progress down the Buffalo. A GPS also comes in handy. Other items you need are Seal Line Dry bags, a water tight 10 gallon bucket, and of course - lawn chairs.














Day Three on the river was a 12 mile paddle to the landing at Gilbert. The scenery on the stretch is absoutely outstanding. I jumped off the rock at 40 ft. high Smart Bluff. Make sure you go river right at Arnold Bend. We noticed a lot of new faces on the Buffalo begining near Bakers Ford. This is a day launch area. Even though there were lots of people on the river, it was still strikingly beautiful. The limestone bluffs are amazing.












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